Skirting the Issue

Hortus Deliciarum

I have been living my life for the last few months surrounded by creative process and research. Spinning yarn, dying, embroidery, crocheting, sewing, writing papers, and teaching classes have all been occupying my time and life.  A large portion dedicated to researching and planning projects at various stages.  Which is okay.  I do love research and I enjoy sharing what I discover and sometimes it helps to form my opinions and a fresh perspective never hurts.

More recently I was working on a bliaut class.  Presenting general information and ideas to further define the concept of what it was.  A class that will find it's way here soon.  As I was delving into skirts, arguing against front gores, and expanding the view to include the bliaut gironé, I began to more stiffly consider those side gores.  Traditionally I, along with many other seamstress, would cut our triangles, attach them to body panels, zip up the sides and call it fin.  While examining the flat panel fronts, I began to wonder about the rather full sides.  They seemed to me that in some works of art they were bearing a lot more fabric that simple gore would usually add.  Perhaps the gores had been pleated to add a fullness to the skirts.  I began to investigate these skirts further.

Well, upon digging around, I found the topic had already been researched a bit by one of my friends and I took a look at the different images of research that were offered up that were different than my own.  I began to feel two different ways about:

1. Upset.  I was hoping to offer up a new perspective on something that I was feeling really excited about.  When you have many people investigating something, someone else is more than likely going to notice it before you, but you try anyway.  The thrill of the new is an enticing thing and it is always a cold moment when someone else beats you to it.

2.  Proud.  I noticed something that my friend, a 12th century maven might I add, noticed and did not have to tell me about it.  I discovered it all on my own.  I didn't have to ride on anyone's back and point in the general direction while shouting "Take me there!"  It is rather nice to have my research skills confirmed.



"Foolish Virgins"

So, on to the bulk of the discovery.  It was the above image that made me think, originally brought up in a group regarding the gentleman's dags.  I found myself looking at the skirt, the relatively smooth front and the multitude of pleats of the side.  Very exciting to me.  I began to work through the small collection of images I had on Pinterest, cell phone, and laptop. 

The next one quite simply is the most popular image of the Foolish Virgins, Italian.  Looking off our whimsical lady's hip, the tiny lines of folds appear quite a bit, indicating more pleating on the side in the gore area.

Next illustration is from the Carmina Burana.  The long graceful lines of pleating can be seen running from waist to hem in the green dress.

Finding illustrations from various areas was good, but when I began to look around at the various groups I belonged to, two images I found delighted me.  A relief sculpture and an extant garment.  Both items only sealed this notion I had regarding the gore treatment in these skirts.  The best is the 12th century alb shown below.  The stitches used to make the smocking have quite the decorative effect.

I still have no idea why I was completely oblivious to these pleated gores up until now, but as I plan my bliaut, I am certain this effect will be quite stunning.  I hope to begin it sometime this spring as we approach event season.  A little something to wow to boys and girls.



Relief from a cathedral in Modena